How To Config Camera
Unlike a compact camera or a DSLR, your iPhone doesn’t let you adjust the most popular settings: aperture, lens length, shutter speed, and white balance. That said, several tools within the Camera app (and other third-party programs) can aid you in taking very attractive pictures.
The network utility, Alibi Config Tool, is used to “Activate” the camera and configure the camera’s network parameters so that the camera can communicate across the network. In the diagram below, IP Cam B and IP Cam C are connected to the router, and are activated with the Alibi Config Tool on Computer B.
Exposure and focus
Setting your iPhone camera’s exposure (which controls the image’s brightness) is a simple matter of tapping once on whatever part of the image you’d like to source. If you move, or if the view changes too much, the Camera app recalibrates and picks a new focus and exposure point.
If you’re taking a macro shot (where one object is in sharp focus while the background is blurred), or if you want to focus on a bright area and leave the rest of the picture washed out, you can lock the exposure and focus on a specific point. Just tap and hold on that point until a yellow focus box appears and pulsates; then release. The words ‘AE/AF Lock’ appear at the top of the app. To clear the lock and change the focus, tap anywhere else on the screen.
Keep in mind that the Camera app forces you to lock the exposure and focus together; you can’t set the exposure on one object and set the focus on another.
HDR
When using the iPhone’s camera, you can enable HDR (high dynamic range) for your photos by tapping HDR On/Off at the top of the viewfinder. Dynamic range is the light spectrum that an eye—or a camera sensor—can read; it can be great for shots that have multiple light levels. A sunset portrait shot, for example, will capture both your subject and the fire-red sky. Apple’s HDR setting takes three images at different exposures (under-exposed, overexposed, and in the middle) and combines them into an image that has more details in both the shadows and the highlights.
When you are shooting in a large venue, your flash is essentially useless. If you want your iPhone’s camera to compensate for low-light conditions, use HDR instead.
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Though it may be tempting to leave HDR on all the time, each HDR photo takes several seconds to save, and the larger (and extra) images eat up storage space fast. If you have an iPhone 5s, consider using its HDR Auto setting instead; when it’s enabled, the device automatically decides whether or not HDR is warranted.
HDR is effective in many instances, but there are a few situations to watch out for.
When capturing motion: If you’re shooting a fast-moving subject or you move the iPhone while shooting, the final HDR image can show ghosting—in which the multiple shots are misaligned and objects appear in more than one place. To avoid ghosting, use a tripod.
When contrast is key: A good shot can create a sense of drama by contrasting light and dark—say, to play up the impact of a dark silhouette against a bright background. HDR shots decrease image contrast.
When recording vivid colors: HDR mode can bring back colors in blown-out or dark areas. But when you are taking pictures of colorful subjects that are properly exposed, HDR mode desaturates colors. To avoid this, turn off HDR. For example, if you’re shooting a horizon where the blue sky is the focus and you don’t mind a dark foreground, turn off HDR and tap to focus on the sky so that you keep the vivid blues in your image.
When you need a flash:Tcode for stock on particular date in sap. When HDR is on, the iPhone can’t use the flash. To get both of them at once, you’ll need to use an external light source.
Burst Mode
If you have an iPhone 5s, you can activate its Burst mode to take ten pictures a second: Tap and hold the shutter button, and your device will pick the least blurry shot of the bunch. Like the HDR mode, though, this tool sucks up storage. So as you save your favorites, take a moment to delete the rejects.
Flash
The flash has saved many a nighttime photo, but often at the expense of adding red-eye and blinding your subjects.
The iPhone flash illuminates subjects well up to about 6 feet away, so you’ll want to use it in close quarters. In addition, the iPhone’s LED flash often adds an odd blue glow, though you can correct this effect by using third-party editing apps.
Here are some cases where you should avoid using a flash.
At large events: When you are shooting in a large venue, such as at a concert, your flash is essentially useless. If you want your iPhone’s camera to compensate for low-light conditions, use HDR instead.
Around glass: If a mirror, a window, or a TV or computer screen is situated nearby, your flash will bounce off of it and create a blurry ball of white light somewhere in your picture. Turn the flash off.
Square format
The square image has turned into the standard image format for social media. It looks good on any device, no matter how you’re holding it.
In iOS 7, you can elect to shoot pictures in a square format. This option is ideal for Instagram addicts, as they don’t have to capture shots using the third-party app just to get the proper framing for their image.
Live Filters
Can’t wait to add a filter in your iPhone’s digital darkroom? Since the advent of iOS 7, if you have an iPhone 4 or later, Apple has let you apply live filters as you’re taking the photo. Effects range from dramatic monochrome to more-playful color filters.
Once you’ve chosen a filter, the camera stays in that mode until you disable it. Unfortunately, you can’t use the live filter in Video or Panorama mode. And you can’t turn off the effects once you’ve saved a photo; so for serious shots, it’s best not to use a filter as you shoot, in case you want the original, unedited image later. You can still access the live filters in the Photos app if you decide to wait until later.
Grids
Photographers and artists alike adhere to the “rule of thirds,” which tells us that photos (and videos—just watch TV and movies for proof) look better when the subject is off center, aligned about a third of the way from left, right, top, or bottom of a grid composed of two horizontal and two vertical lines (see the image to the left). According to the rule of thirds, the most visually interesting parts of the photo should fall along one of the lines, or at one of the points of intersection.
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Many seasoned photographers can imagine invisible grid lines when composing a shot, but your iPhone makes the task easy for you: Turn on the Grid feature by tapping Settings > Photos & Camera > Grid. This overlays a three-by-three grid on your frame, letting you apply the rule of thirds effortlessly, even if you’re a beginner.
Hello,
Thank you for posting your concern here in Microsoft Community and welcome to the Windows 10. I would like to assist you.
From the description provided, I understand that you want to configure the drivers for the camera on your computer.
Please follow the below suggested methods and check if it helps.
Method 1
Windows should automatically recognize and install the drivers once you connect the device. try to run the Windows inbuilt troubleshooter to check if there are any issues with the drivers. Follow below.
a) Write Troubleshooting in the search box and hit enter.
b) Click on Troubleshooting tab.
c) Click on view all option on the upper left corner.
d) Select the Hardware and Device options from the list.
e) Click Next to run the Hardware and Device Troubleshooter.
Method 2
Check if the ‘Windows Installer’ service is set to Automatic
Steps to check if the service is set to Automatic
i. Click Start and type services.msc in the search box.
ii. Search for the service Windows Installer.
iii. Right click on the service.
iv. If the service is stopped then Start the service.
v. Select Properties.
vi. And in the Start-up type select Automatic.
Method 3
Download and install the latest drivers from the manufacturer's website. Also, try to download the drivers for the device using the Windows device driver update.
(Also applies to Windows 10)
Alternatively, if the update fails to register and download the requisite drivers for the device, you can also use the vendor id of the Bluetooth device and look for it in the PCI Vendor and Device Lists
FAQ: http://www.pcidatabase.com/
Unknown and uninstalled devices will be listed under Other. The device will have a yellow alert symbol on it. The properties for the device will show that no driver was found.
Ref: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-in/windows-8/where-is-device-manager
Under the Device Properties, select the Details tab and scroll down to Hardware IDs. Each Hardware ID is comprised of some very useful information. The VID value provides the vendor ID and the PID value provides the Product ID of the device. Make a note of the PID value. Enter the PID value in the search box of Update Catalog. In cases where you have multiple device types listed, narrow down your search by also adding in the VID value.
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Once downloaded and extracted, you can point Device Manager to this driver to install the hardware.
Please keep us posted on the status of the issue. If it still persists, we would be happy to help you further.
Thank You.